diy led car headlights!

by:Lanson     2020-03-06
In my opinion it seems silly to start doing something before knowing the reason.
Let\'s explore why I think more fixtures are needed for my Atos:)
The low beam setting is dim.
Not in the sense of \"wow: that top\"
The motorcycle gives more light than my car;
No, it\'s from a \"man\" perspective, I\'m driving behind a scooter that sounds like I \'ve never had before
Because the light of it let me see the pit at the front 20 m, so the end of the fart.
In fact, I was told by some older people that they couldn\'t even tell from the inside whether the lights were on or off. B)
The legitimate \"high\" beam setting is the normal low setting, because the Mexican federal road legislation defines these settings: it allows me to see the road more than 20 m kilometers ahead, and will not disturb the driver in the opposite direction.
So yes, I think it makes sense to add more lights to my car.
Now, let\'s draw some goals for this project:)
The new lights can improve my overall view.
For those times when I entered the more dangerous areas of Cancun, add and finally make my headlights a \"secondary light \". B)
The new lights should not add more pressure to the micro battery, micro engine and micro alternator of my car. C)
The new headlights should not be brought to the attention of criminals.
This should be done by seeing them at a glance or making them obvious and ugly.
Personally, I don\'t like to deliberately make my car look bad, so my main focus should be on stealth design. D)
Lights need to be controlled separately from the default headlights, so the names of fog lights should be used.
That way I wouldn\'t be caught by the police in case the police pulled me over and asked me why I was driving with the headlights turned off. E)
I can\'t modify the aerodynamic profile of the front end no matter what the light needs.
This includes symmetrical work, as well as not enough blocking the front grid to make the radiator work more than it already does. F)
The array itself must be designed to cool itself in the air.
Most people Design LED arrays like design bulbs and forget that the LED is hot --
Sensitive microchips that must be kept below 85 degrees Celsius in order to maximize their role.
By the way, I hope I don\'t, but I may forget to mention something that is too obvious to me.
Comment on this and I will make a correction, or I am useless.
Material: I pull MXN $50000 (around USD$45. 00)
Bought the following from my budget:)
3mm LED in white.
There are 50 people in the project;
My stock is £ 50)Thirty-
5 820hm resistors (
Watt every quarter)C)
Plywood chips.
I bought everything on STEREN.
STEREN has a business in Mexico and the United States, you can shop online or find the nearest store to you through this website: have a little inventory on anything I may need: D)
About a dozen different types of glue (
From hot glue to EpoxyE)
White led \'SF 5mm or so)
Various cables (
Different caliber of sound and micro-electronic cable).
I prefer to use heat shrink insulation or glue for best resultsas-
High insulation rate than tape. G)
Acrylic clear paint.
You may be able to identify it as \"transparent graffi\" more easily \". TOOLS:A)
Dremel with sufficient access)
A Hacksaw bladeC)
All kinds of pliers: precision-
Scissors, needles-
Round head pliers-
Wire bending pliers-
Peel pliers, etc. D)
A welding ironE)
Mirror, flashlight and my phonephone\'s camera.
Sometimes these are the only tools I have to look at the workspace. F)
Basic Safety equipment: safety glasses, pumps, etc. SUBSTANCES:A)
In my case, pull out the acid of the copper layer from the glue chip.
Unless you really know how to etching, try to get the glue wood without the coating.
I started at 40 degrees Celsius and kept it in 15% water solution at 33 degrees Celsius (
Ambient temperature)
Stir from time to time.
Copper is gone in half an hour.
The pictures below should all have proper titles, but I should tell you before I get there that all my white LED is 3. 5 V, 20mA.
So I weld them into three series with the 82 ohm resistance of the 12 volt power supply (
Battery of car).
I don\'t do LED circuits without resistors because:)
By letting the LEDs exceed the nominal voltage, you can let them change the color. B)
By letting the LEDs exceed the nominal current, you will overheat them and deprive them of their long life.
The 20 mA LED that works at 50 mA will emit twice as much light as normal light emission (
Overheating makes efficiency much lower)
But it will only be between 100 and 500 hours (4 to 20 days)
Contrary to the theoretical average life of 50,000 hours (5. 7years). C)
You have to go crazy trying to get a no
Resistor circuit connected to no-
Resistance, very high current power supply such as lead-acid battery.
Let\'s put it this way: if I run our matches and my lighter is out of oil, I can open my gas stove with an LED and tap the cable and motorcycle battery.
One more thing to forget: I didn\'t do all the component builds before opening the hood for the next step: prepare the area.
Before that, I made only 2 arrays of 24 5mm LEDs.
To put it simply, I cut, drill, screw, Polish, not necessarily on a given order.
I also undid the modern logo, grinded its area and painted it in matte black.
To put it simply, I installed the LED array where they rested.
To make matters worse, I had to wait until the night fell before I fixed most things in place.
Most of what I said was because no.
I will try to install the free wayin-the-
Air indicator lights inside the dark Post Modern sign: I already need to install them by touch, and if I give up using the mirror to guide my choice, I will go crazy.
I\'m sorry that this step doesn\'t have a lot of pictures, but my hands are sticky most of the time, my phone is also sticky, LG MG800c \"chocolate\" almost has to be kept clean to work properly.
To put it simply, I let my Dead test battery rest together (
Charger connected to it)
, Connect the array directly to the car battery and drive to the nearest Oxxo (
Like seven in Mexico. Eleven)
Drink a soft drink
The full array is not quite powerful yet, but it is enough for me to turn off the high beam.
So far, I am happy with the results.
I have been testing this thing for a few days.
Life has been busy lately: my final exam is over, my party Hall is over, and my party Hall comes crashing as the police raid my inaugural party, vandalize and rob the place
Hate corruption)
The insurance company is a sympathetic person, but also a very slow bureaucratic monster that spends 11 hours a day at school (
My summer course started)
My car needs service, etc.
Luckily, I will prepare myself for almost a full day on Friday, and the party Hall is down right now. Anyway. . .
About this note: 1)
I fixed the camera.
Here\'s the story itself: I went to the authorized service of my phone and didn\'t have it for a few days and they called me and told me that it had humidity damage and, therefore, the warranty was not valid.
I celebrated that the warranty was invalid, picked up the phone, took it apart at home and found that the problem was that some lime deposits were piled up inside multiple roomsconnector (Power/USB/manualfree)
I used a sharp needle and it worked like a new one for five minutes.
I wish I had taken a picture of everything I did to the phone and then made a note of it.
The problem is that when you fix the camera, it\'s hard to take a picture of the camera. 2)
I finally took those pictures.
They were posted here. 3)
I separated LEDs from the marker lamp circuit and installed a temporary switch for them on the dashboard.
If one of the main goals behind my project is to have optional lights that I can use when I want them and when I go through an unreliable area, I can turn it off and I have to control them directly even early in the project. 4)
I put five more red LED indoors.
I might end up adding a bunch. 5)
I did the experiment with 10mm acrylic tablets.
I can cut it very well, but my polishing technology needs more improvement.
I might need a real big polishing wheel or \"outsource\" these parts.
Don\'t hold your breath: I\'m currently exploring different ways.
Simply put, a customer cancels a job that contains a lot of economical red LEDs that are not wasted now.
Please look at the picture.
This information contains all the necessary information.
This should be a step in how to make LED modules in high density.
To put it simply, it turns into a lesson about not doing things when designing LED headlight modules:)
Leave the resistance in front of the design. B)
Don\'t drown your resistance in silicone or similar liquids
Chemical Insulation begins.
I used a thin insulating material that used to work well in the flashlight design and worked well in a week and several times when it rained.
The problem is that it is not so good when I walk through the flooded road: half of the lights start flashing and will definitely die a week later.
Ironically, the lights installed on the lower grill were the lowest and never hesitated.
Fortunately, the modules were made for my own use: if returned from the customer, I would hate my reputation being tarnished.
I did waste a Sunday and $20 +.
However, it is 00 on these.
This is enough: I will continue this project.
The first picture shows the current situation: two upper \"edge\" arrays with 21 5mm LEDs per array (
Pointing forward, 5 degrees down, 5 degrees outward)
Central array with a top density of 60 LEDs (
Direct, replace 12 LED arrays around the modern symbol)
And two lower \"edge\" arrays with 24 5mm LEDs per array (
Ten degrees down, five degrees inward).
Excluding 18 LEDs sitting under the holes used by modern symbols to sit, the array consumes 10.
5 Watts at the Led, 1.
6 Watts at the resistance, accurately draw 1 amp (1000 mA)
From the Source
As of July 1, the last module had been installed for a week and a half and it rained so heavily that my car looked like it had been washed: if these modules were about to fail, they have done so long ago.
The second image is about the working image of the upper \"edge\" LED module structure.
They are roughly the same as step 4, except that I painted the boards before I started working.
The third picture is the building of my central module.
The fourth picture is a close-up
On the capacitor, I take it out of the power supply of an old computer and connect to the central array.
I used a recycled bridge diode to isolate these hats and their array from the rest of the car, and of course I had to adjust the resistor value of the central array.
The fifth picture shows several octagonal mirrors I installed in the central array hole.
Not that useful, but they rolled out an extra light.
The sixth picture is a test of the array under the same conditions as usual.
I need to reach the 300 mark before the light is good enough, but I am happy that only 102 of the position points to the front and I do have good lighting.
I have decided that I need a phase 3 consisting of Lu Xun or such a high-intensity LEDs.
Don\'t hold your breath though: I need to finish Phase 2 first and they learn how to use luxury goods.
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