vintage headlights and taillights for pinewoood derby car

by:Lanson     2020-03-19
My son\'s Pinewood Derby car made me forget a little this year . . so.
We decided to buy another car he built himself, but I decided to finish the first one.
My design is a special pine forest Derby edition hot bar based on wood carving illustrations.
I \'ve also seen the Pinewood Derby car with LED headlights and taillights, and I think it\'s a good idea, but I \'ve never used an old-fashioned headlights bucket for 32 Ford sports cars. Materials:(2)
Yellow or white LEDs
More retro look in yellow.
Smaller LED is easier to install. (2)Red LEDs -
My chrome ring is already attached. (2)
Sharpie marks or other brands with the correct shape.
2 part epoxy cement or transparent cast epoxy sandpaper-
Pinewood Derby KitCoin battery stand (from 320 to 2000)
I use the stand and 2032 battery on the old motherboard)(4)
Length of 2 wires of different colors-
I use red and blue.
Tools: side cutters, small sawmill, drill drills, mixing suppliers, hot glue, spray welding, iron and electric welding.
I do have a box of dried Shapi markers in my office.
Cut the marker pen in half and remove the felt.
Save the bucket behind.
Cut out about 1/2 \"from the back of the pen, about 1/16 more than the final expected length.
Exacto saw and miter box are very effective in this regard.
Clean up string bars, especially from inside the cut.
Drill a hole large enough on the back of the barrel to allow both leads of your LED to pass through.
If the hole is too small, it will bend the lead together and take the risk of short circuit.
The Mark I used had some ribs that interfered with the LED seat.
These need to be opened.
Drilling does not work;
The drill bit catches the ribs, making it difficult to hold and deform the bucket.
Running back dill Lo seems to push the ribs far enough and the LED will be in the bucket.
Drimel can do the same.
The test is LED.
Smaller LEDs can be installed without much modification.
I use too much;
You want the end of the LED to be around 1/16 behind the last edge of your bucket.
I throw the LED back with a drill and polish the lip from the bottom.
Using a 320 piece of sandpaper, I also polished the tip of the LED and tested it while walking (
I don\'t know how much can be removed without damaging the LED.
Don\'t worry about polishing LED;
The frosted surface spreads light for a more realistic look.
Insert the LED body into the bucket.
Keep the LED in the center of the barrel and add a little hot glue to the base from the outside.
The glue has to keep the LED in the desired position, but more importantly, it has to seal any gap in the hole so that the epoxy we are going to pour will not leak.
I use a piece of polystyrene foam to stick the lead to the foam to hold the pouring.
I have two ways. . .
First, the syringe. type 2-
Part epoxy cement with yellow color.
This is fine, but it\'s a little thick.
I also used two epoxy resin mixed slightly thinner.
I mixed the equal parts of each resin and hardening agent in the plastic cup.
You may have different proportions;
Read your instructions.
It takes only a few teaspoons to fill up two barrels.
If your hot glue is well sealed, you can simply fill each bucket with a mixed resin.
Give it a few minutes to fix and add more if needed.
I found that any resin dripping on the marker is not very sticky, so don\'t worry too much about the drops.
I first tried to clean up these things before the epoxy cured and destroyed part.
They found a good curing point for the resin.
Don\'t rush this. -
The resin must be fully cured before the next step.
It takes 72 hours for my resin to fully solidify.
With a sharp exacto blade, carefully trim the excess hot glue from the bottom of the barrel.
Start with 220 sandpaper on a hard and flat surface and start grinding the lens flat.
Often check whether the surface of the lens is perpendicular to the center line of the barrel.
Progress through 320,400,600 sandpaper.
I went on with 1000 and 2000 sandpaper.
To draw your bucket, put the lens on a piece of concealer tape.
Protect the lead with a little tape or Vaseline and spray the color of your choice.
At this point you can polish your lenses or coat with clear nail polish. .
I use the lead of the LED as the front light holder.
When insulated with a little hot glue, their srtong is enough to keep the headlights in the right position.
I realized the bucket was a bit big and could be placed between the side of the hood and the tires.
Since I didn\'t play and didn\'t need to follow all the rules, I decided to thin the wheels.
In any case, the Big n small looks good for the car.
The tail light of this car is-
Selling a few dollars each in a radio shed
They already have a chrome-plated decorative ring that fits perfectly.
Measure the diameter of the shaft and drill a hole to install it.
I know I\'m going to get some criticism for recommending this, but here\'s--
Pinewood derby lasts only a few hours and you really don\'t need a resistor.
The life of the Led will be longer than it takes.
We will run 4 LED with a 3 v coin battery.
If you really want to increase the resistance, there are a lot of things that \"show how.
Weld a fine red line on the long legs of each LED.
Use a radiator clip between the solder joint and the LED to prevent overheating.
Weld a blue wire on each short leg.
Connect the wire through the body through the hole to the battery stand.
Twist each bundle of wires and weld the black wire to the positive pole on the battery stand, tie the white wire to the negative pole.
I fixed the battery holder on the bottom of the car with a large beach hot glue.
If I make the battery cavity bigger, I can do all the connections with a small perfboard in order to do a cleaner job.
Sorry, I don\'t have a picture of the lower side.
When I get the new cameras I try to add them.
Put the battery on the stand and the light should be lit right away.
My on/off switch is a piece of plastic on the battery pack that slides between the battery and the clip.
Thank you. Good luck! !
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